Dog Dislocated Hip: Signs, First Aid and What Treatment Involves

A dog's dislocated hip is a sudden, painful injury that needs a vet the same day, not a wait-and-see week. Vets call it coxofemoral luxation, which simply means the head of the thigh bone has come out of the hip socket.¹ The most common cause is blunt force trauma, such as a fall or being hit by a car, though any traumatic injury to the hip area may cause a hip to dislocate.² Here is what it looks like, what to do before you reach the clinic, and what recovery usually involves.

What a dislocated hip actually is

The hip is a ball and socket joint, and a dislocation means the ball has popped out. Dislocation disrupts the joint capsule and other supportive structures of the hip, including ligaments and often bone.¹ In about 90% of cases the femoral head, the ball at the top of the thigh bone, ends up in front of and above the acetabulum, the hip socket, so dislocations in other directions do happen but are much less common.¹

This is a different problem from a hip that was always a poor fit. Partial dislocation, called subluxation, where the ball slips only part way out, is typically linked to joint degeneration as with hip dysplasia, and it is commonly on both sides, whereas full dislocation on both sides is rare.¹ If your dog's back end has been getting weaker slowly over months rather than in one moment, read our guide to hip dysplasia in dogs instead. That said, the two overlap: hip luxation is commonly caused by trauma, but joint degeneration or hip dysplasia increases the risk.¹

What a dislocated hip looks like in a dog

It usually looks like a leg that stops working in an instant. Most dogs with a hip dislocation will have severe hind limb lameness and may not be able to put any weight on the affected limb.² The affected limb is often carried in a flexed position, folded or pulled up, rotated slightly outwards, and may appear shorter than the other limb.² Traumatic hip luxation is painful, and it affects both weight bearing and leg function.¹ Expect trouble rising, refusal of stairs, awkward squatting to toilet, and a dog who flinches or snaps when you reach for the back end.

If the dislocation has been there a long time, the dog may only show a subtle lameness, especially small dogs, but they will still carry the limb abnormally and will have decreased muscle.²

Can a dog walk on a dislocated hip?

Some dogs show only subtle lameness rather than refusing to use the leg at all, especially small dogs and those whose dislocation happened a while ago, though they will still carry the limb abnormally.² Do not test it. Never ask your dog to walk, trot or stand on the leg to "see how bad it is", and do not lift the back end to watch the gait. Report what you have already seen to the vet and let the examination happen under proper pain control.

What to do in the first hour

Keep your dog still, safe and unhandled below the hip. Confine them to a small padded area on non-slip footing, block stairs and jumping, and carry a large dog with the injured side supported rather than letting them walk to the car. A towel used as a stretcher under the chest and belly works well with two people.

Do not straighten, rotate, massage or pull the leg, and never attempt to put the hip back yourself. Because this condition is painful, your dog may not allow the leg to be handled, and sedation may be required even for a full veterinary examination.² A soft muzzle fitted calmly protects you both, as long as your dog is breathing easily and not vomiting. Give no human painkillers and no leftover medication from a previous illness.

Go straight to an emergency vet if your dog collapsed, is breathing hard, has pale gums, has an obvious deformity, is in pain you cannot settle, or was hit by a car. The force required to produce hip luxation can also damage the urinary system, lungs, heart, or other body organs.¹ If your dog has other, more serious or life-threatening injuries, these will be treated before your veterinarian addresses the dislocated hip.²

Why the first three days matter

Putting the hip back without surgery, known as closed reduction, is more likely to succeed when the dislocation is recent, ideally less than 72 hours old.² If the hip is left dislocated, a false joint may form and the dog will have permanent lameness and potentially chronic pain.²

How the vet confirms a dislocated hip

Hands first, then pictures. Your veterinarian will physically examine your dog and notice that the hip joint is painful when it is moved, and may also feel a grinding sensation, called crepitus, when the thigh bone is moved.² Bony landmarks around the hip are felt for and compared side to side. Diagnosis is confirmed by X-ray, which shows the direction of dislocation and whether there is a fracture in any part of the hip joint.² Heavy sedation or general anesthesia may be needed for those images.¹

After trauma, the workup goes wider. A full general examination and orthopedic evaluation should be performed because of the possibility of other injuries,¹ and blood work is used to assess organ function, identify the extent of damage, find pre-existing problems, and plan anesthesia.¹

The treatment paths, in plain terms

There are four main routes for a dislocated hip, namely closed reduction, surgical (open) reduction, femoral head ostectomy, and total hip replacement, and the choice depends on things like the injury, the shape of the dog's hip, and the surgeon's experience.¹

• Closed reduction. The hip is put back under short anesthesia and often supported in that position with a sling.¹ A supportive wrap called an Ehmer sling can be applied to immobilise the leg and stop the hip popping back out, and it stays in place for 4 to 14 days.²
• Open surgical stabilisation. In some cases it is impossible to place the ball back into the socket, or to keep it from slipping out, and surgery is needed.²
• Femoral head ostectomy (FHO). When restoring the hip is not feasible due to injury or a poorly shaped hip, the head and neck of the thigh bone are removed, producing a "false joint" of scar tissue.¹ FHO is primarily recommended for small dogs, under about 45 pounds.³
• Total hip replacement. Both the ball and socket are removed and replaced with artificial parts.⁴

The honest odds

Closed reduction is successful about 50% of the time,¹ and historically around half of closed reductions and 10 to 20% of open reductions require further surgical repair.¹ Surgery generally holds better. Success is high with most open techniques,¹ and the outlook is excellent for eventual return of good to excellent limb function, depending on the severity of injury or underlying joint degeneration.¹

Left untreated, the outlook is worse, because a hip that stays dislocated can form a false joint, leaving the dog with permanent lameness and possibly chronic pain.² Dogs whose joint was not successfully put back often limp or have limited use of the limb, and most eventually need treatment for osteoarthritis in the hip because of the injury.²

What recovery looks like

The supporting structures of the hip take several weeks to heal, and activity needs restricting for at least six to eight weeks.¹ Controlled activity with exercises is often started by two weeks after surgery,¹ and re-strengthening the limb muscles takes a further period of controlled, progressive activity.¹ If the hip has been successfully put back, aftercare followed, and it remains in place after 14 days, it is unlikely to dislocate again.²

If your dog is in a sling or bandage, check it daily. Look at the bandage and leg for swelling, odor and discomfort.² Slings must be monitored closely for rub sores or changes in position, because a sling that slips out of place can produce severe injury to the leg.¹ Call the clinic rather than loosening or re-wrapping it yourself. Careful rehabilitation is recommended to improve hip function and reduce future arthritis.²

Where mobility gear fits, and where it does not

A sling can be used for initial assistance with walking during the restricted period, and your dog should avoid stairs and slippery surfaces.⁵

For dogs left with lasting hind-leg weakness, from a hip that could not be saved, long-standing arthritis or a wider back end problem, the OldPal Rear Support Dog Wheelchair supports mobility by carrying weight through the hips and chest rather than the spine, with the back legs set to hang free or lightly brush the ground. It comes in five sizes covering rear leg heights from 3 to 27 inches, and dogs can squat and toilet while in it. Measure from the top of the hip straight down to the toe pad with your dog lying on their side, then check the sizing guide and fit finder. Send a photo and a measurement to help@oldpalpets.com if you want a second opinion on size.

Frequently asked questions

Related guides

• Hip dysplasia in dogs
• Arthritis in a dog's hip
• German shepherds and hip problems
• How to measure your dog for a wheelchair

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